to find that I was by the sea, gazing with tranquility...

We wandered outside to get something to eat and on the way back spotted one of the working ships that ply the Norwegian coastline, just as it was manoeuvring for departure. Called Hurtigruten, they have no direct connection with the Donovan lyric above*, except in my head.

There's something far more interesting about a proper ship-shaped ship turning, compared with the more commonplace RoRo car ferries. You know - pointed front and curved back. We watched as it executed a 180 degree turn in the space of a 10 Kroner coin, before disappearing into the distance. About ten minutes later, its sister ship appeared in preparation for a similar transition.

* Hurdy Gurdy Man

watching for the Hurtigruten at Molde

We've left the little hut on the side of a valley, after a delightful couple of days, which included trip along a winding route where the trolls live.

This evening I'm watching a huge sea bird flying across the expanse of another fjord and I gave up counting mountain peaks when I reached 112. Without moving my head I can count 25 peaks right now, and I'm not even close to the window.

We've crossed back to the western fjords, to a small harbour town called Molde, which we reached by a ferry crossing and then a drive through a deep tunnel under another stretch of water.

We decided the view at our location is so good, that we'd sit with a drink, rather than wandering off into the town. Later, a couple of ships from the Hurtigruten pass by here on their way from the south to the very northern tip of Norway.

Until then, here's a hastily grabbed video from the window. No editing, so it will be a bit rough.

great things are done when trolls and mountains meet

This time we're in the area officially regarded as the home of Trolls. They decided to throw a few thunderbolts around and sprinkle the land with rain, just as we arrived.

Of course, it was only playful, and they were simply improving the view for us so that by the time we arrived at the fjord, there would be a suitably mystic appearance. The trolls themselves were hiding; they don't come out in sunlight, because if they did, they'd turn to stone.

we decide to stay in a little hut in the valley

Tonight we’re staying in a little wooden hut in the valley. It’s on the way north past Lillehammer and looks like the sort of place the three bears might live.

I checked though and there’s no porridge, although I did spot some tasty hjemmebakeri kaffemat which we’ve eaten without getting any ominous taps on the door.

It makes quite a contrast to the place we stayed a couple of days ago...

mud is the new black

The little French car we're using has been showing off its adaptive paint scheme over the last day or two.

I guess it's a feature of some of the terrain, which has included the Peer Gynt Way, which is a lengthy drive across beautiful countryside on mainly lightly made roads. It's a toll road and at one point required us to stop, fill out a form and then post money through a kind of letter box.

It's been a similar experience with the local shop, where we wrote a note saying what we'd taken, to be charged later.

unexpected events at the Astrup Fearnley Museet

Sometimes you just don't know what to expect.

I first noticed Elmgreen and Dragset's work when they exhibited on the fourth plinth in Trafalgar Square. Officially called 'Powerless Structures, Fig. 101', I'd describe it as the golden boy on an plywood rocking horse. It simply subverted the idea of a great leader on a horse in such a prime location.

At the fantastic Astrup Fearnley Museet, here in Oslo, there's a whole collection of Elmgreen and Dragset's installations, which start disarmingly in the entrance to the main site. They've taken over a downstairs area which I guess is normally the way to the restrooms and created something of a makeover, innocently disorientating everyone who ventures into the space.

The neon lit 'Amigos' sign give a hint and expressions start to change before everyone experiences somewhat more than expected, creating a whole extra level of mannered accidental and humorous participation.

Then into the main exhibition, via what seemed to be the remnants of a gay disco bar after a particularly wild party.

Further along, there was plenty to see and challenge and enough space for the show to have room to breathe.

let's have a look in the courtesy drawer

Okay.

I know it's a bit silly, but here's the contents of the courtesy drawer in the hotel. Fresh shirt, cufflinks and all manner of other items.

The adjacent minibar makes these items look like positive bargains.

Hardangervidda

Today we're crossing the mountains in the southern part of Norway. It's a seven hour train journey between Norway's two main cities of Bergen and Oslo, and the route crosses the Hardangervidda, which is Europe's highest mountainous plateau.

It's a modern, smooth, quiet train, once the bustling backpackers have all found their pre-assigned seats, before we leave Bergen. We later discover that there's even a kids' carriage, complete with an expansive play-area.

There's 182 tunnels on the route as well as climbs and the skirting of further mountains draped in the remains of summer snow. Yet outside temperature is 34 degrees on part of the journey. 'Costa del Norge' as the headlines say in the local papers.

At this time of year, there's plenty of people out biking the extensive trails in the middle section of the route. We've started at the western end ahead of a couple of days to wander Oslo.

Flåm

We found ourselves adjacent to a Viking brewery last night. It meant today we were well positioned to take a small boat along the fjord. At our first destination we stumbled upon a Viking encampment, with folk cooking food from smoky fires, practicing archery and following the nine noble Norse values.

We still had some distance to cover and took a local bus along twisty hairpin roads, not least to retrieve the rest of our clothes, which have been stashed away in a locker somewhere at the other end of a fjord.

Almost midnight sun

We've been through snow today. Not huge amounts, but it is surrounding us. The light packing for this part of the trip means that I don't have a computer until I get back to our base camp, so this blogging by mobile phone will have to suffice.

We've been heading north to the extent it was still light at 2330 yesterday. It was actually kind of light at midnight, but I'd say the half past eleven was a more convincing case.

Because we are in a deep valley tonight, I am pretty sure the darkness will come earlier. And then tomorrow we'll be on board a ship for a nine o clock departure.

dance along a coloured wind

We are in Bryggen at the moment, with narrow alleys dividing the ancient wooden buildings. We're staying close to the water's edge, ahead of the arrival of the tall ships which will begin to congregate for the festival in a few days time.

We've also wandered the higher area around the town, where we could look down into varied fjords and see how the sky is held in place,.

Tomorrow we'll head further north, travelling very light, with just a pocketful of spare clothes.

Anchors aweigh, men, heave away!

livskunstner

I managed to replace the busted communication gadget before packing for some power down road trip time.

We have set the direction to north-east. To the land of bilberries and crinkly-edges.

I doubt if we'll see Slartibartfast, although it might be like another planet.